Multan, Bahawalpur, Islamabad, Swat and Lahore
by Talal Khan
This visit for Pakistan was the best kind, knee jerk reaction to my brother going to Isloo, nick name of our home, Islamabad. I bought my tickets through Qatar airlines and was dropped to a huge line of mostly desi people standing patiently to get to check in, anxious about whether they will be allowed to board amid the COVID-19 crisis. I had upgraded my flight last minute to business calls from Doha to Isloo and went straight to the business class counter. Fully immunized and boosted, with a less than 24-hour negative COVID test, I still felt vulnerable in front of the flight attend who had suddenly been granted the power to decide my destiny of being able to board the flight. The pandemic other than claiming lives of the vulnerable has created chaos and turned most of the masses to sheep that follow orders without protesting, and definitely not using common sense. It has also empowered some people by giving them the power to control people. Relishing this power, some of these minions unfortunately can wreak your travel plans as my brother found out when his COVID test did not meet the criteria of testing by few hours. The bitchy faced lady at the counter smugly asked him to return from LA to San Diego and did not let his board. Fuck that.
Luckily or due to divine will, I passed through the travel prerequisites easily and even experienced some flirting by the security officer on my way to check in. I was traveling without kids and was able to sit and have a meal with no worry in my mind at the airport restaurant. I boarded my plane and despite buying extra leg room, found the seats uncomfortable. Luckily, I was able to travel in business class from Doha and enjoyed the privileges of Q suite. Reaching Islamabad, always sparks a sort of love that a child must feel in the womb for his mother, a strange sense of security, of belonging, and most of all of being home. After being checked in with a typical Punjabi Security officer unmasked and unapologetic despite all the signs and announcements at the airport announcing doomsday that was the COVID-19 pandemic. My luggage came is good time and I was met by my Saddam Hussein look alike dad, and Ama at the gate with Mubashir, our loyal servant from Azad Kashmir who was nicknamed as Bagla by us for his uncanny resemblance to the bird. Perched high above the ground, he collected my luggage and almost teleports into the car which he brought in front of the main gait as if he was jumping through a worm hole in a multiverse out of avenger movie.
The ride home was exciting and full of wonder. I reached home and was able to embrace my brother Talha, a warmth like no other, meeting your sibling in the home we shared for almost two decades. Ama had made more adjustments to this house and miraculously transformed this fourty year old house to a modern wonder of luxury. A ruthless dictator when coming to manage the servants, she runs a tight ship. She has trained the servants in her image. Cleanliness and organization is every where in the Najeeb house hold and not a feather can change its position without her permission.
After taking a catnap, we went for breakfast at Cheema Chatha, a premier breakfast place for desi food, lasi, parathas, nihari, daal channa and Halwa Puri. Wolfing down the breakfast, we left aand went straight to Shirin Khalas grave. This was my first visit since the death of my beloved Khala who an angel of Allah in this world was. Strangely I did not feel sad or unhappy at the grave. It was almost as she had been liberated by death from the cruelties that she endured in this world. Smiling down on me from the heavens, she instructed me to take care of her only son, the Kungfu panda who shares some of her angelic tendencies.
Next up, we went to a café in super market where we had a near death experience when the security guard started cleaning the gun with the barrel pointed at us. Luckily, Taha had the guts to confront him and I learnt a lesson to always watch my surroundings for unprecedented threats. Coming home, we rested for a while before I went for a jog with Taha to the cricket ground. It was a a good 2.5 mile run which did nothing to help digest the gigantic brunch we had enjoyed earlier. My friend Wazahat and his wife decided to join us for the planned rooftop barbecue at night. A special treat with views of Monal from the roof, we were served up parathas, Bihari kebob and barbecued chicken. Enjoying a good conversation with Wazahat and Sadaf, we also enjoyed some hookah prepared by Saad. Hookah was as smooth as Saad is while trying to hustle Bagla, his recent accomplishment was selling him a smart phone.
Talha decided to sleep early and Taha and I left to tour some of the hangouts. We returned after having chai and tucked in to see what tomorrow holds
Day 2:
This day started with Jet lag and inability to sleep. I stayed up most of the night and left early morning to start the day with a long walk and offer fajar prayers. It was brutally cold as I warmed myself to the melodious voice of my precious. Discussing different topics, I was able to do about 5000 steps even before Fajar. The Imam of our F-7 mosque has changed and the new guy has beautiful Qirat. I enjoyed his recitation of Al -Ala. I kept walking for a while after prayers, got home, enjoyed the warm Parthas made by Ama. The breakfast at home is the highlight of my trip. Nothing like warm parathas to fill you soul and belly for the rest of the day.
The days after just hot mixed up as I did not have much time to write the blog. We were invited to the horse riding club where we had delicious Chinese. I got my first glimpse of Manha. I love Manha and she brings so much joy to me. Growling “Come here” was met by the cutest response of “Tayya”. We were hosted by Madeeha’s family. Uncle Najam is a gracious host and embodies the best of Pakistan Army.
In no time, we decided to go to Multan. Making reservations in Ramada, we set out in two cars. Miss Incredible had it all figured out as we galloped up the Motorway at 7 am in the morning. There is something to be said about the rest stops in Pakistan. The food is delicious and KFC is real with its Zinger burger and random Chai is delicious. I met a spiritual being a sweeper at our first stop and for some reason was drawn to him. Gave him some money and sat down with family to enjoy a combination of home snacks with bought snacks. We set on our way again and reached Multan, a very dusty city with an incredible past by 1 pm. Ramada proved to be an oasis in an otherwise chaotic city. I immediately checked out the local gym which was surprisingly nice and set out with family to visit the shrines of Shah Rukn-e- Alam and Hazrat Bahauddin Zakariya. Perched on top of the city, these were monuments of early Tughluq Architecture. Talha was able to capture some great shots and we were able to walk and take in vies of Multan. It is here that I saw some beautiful teenage girls begging and it reminded me of Junaid jamshed Lyrics of childhood pop song called “ Sanwali Salooni si heh Mehbooba. The city has such an amazing past and I learnt that it was home to an ancient sun worshipping temple, later destroyed by invading muslims, that Alexander the Great came to Multan and was shot with an arrow while invading the city fort and that the Hindu celebration of Holi was born out of legend in Multan. Muhammad Bin Qasim almost did not invade Multan but for help from a local source that led to defeat of Raja Dahir. It became a hotspot in Islamic trade routes and saw many rulers change from Afghans, Pashtuns and finally Sikhs. It is for this reason that you can spot tremendous diversity in locals who live in this great city, some oblivious of their glorious past.
The last shrine visit offered an opportunity to listen to some devotional music by local Qawals that could take you to ecstasy. We did find a woman who was in trance listening to the qawals.
The highlight of the trip turned out to be the dinner late night where we had some of the best mutton chops and Tawa chicken at a Champ house recommended by Ammad. Enjoying that with my family and taking in fake Pepsi locally made in Multan, we were in heaven. I went straight to bed but the boys enjoyed the outdoor coffee shop late night. Mid was through the night I was woken up by the snores of Kong who was sleeping right next to me. The breakfast at Ramada was a buffet but was miles from the lame breakfast in US. Everything from continental breakfast to Pakistani delights were at offer. We again set out early to go to a place I did not know existed called Uch Sharif. Nestled near the confluence of Punjabs five rivers, the city was found by Alexander the Great and has the Bibi Jawandi.
A sight to be hold in the middle of nowhere, this was an awesome piece of architecture. Unfortunately, a lot got destroyed by a flood in 1800 but a restoration is in process. The place has a sense of splendor and awe. Leaving here we went to Derawar fort. This fort is in Cholistan desert, and it was good to see the transition of scenery from farmland to desert like as we approached the fort. A site to be taken, the fort was constructed in 9th century and offers magnificent views. I was able to pray in a mosque right next to it.
Visible from a distance were domes of the graveyard for royal family of the area that was buried there. Leaving the fort, we went to Nur Mehal is Bahawalpur. The place has so much history and I was fascinated to learn the history of the Nawabs and the role of the last Nawab of Bahawalpur, Sadiq Muhammad Khan the fifth who was very generous to the Government of Pakistan. We were fortunate to have dinner in Nur Mehal as it lit up with Rahat Fateh Ali Khan playing in the background.
Next day we left for Lahore. We stayed in Pearl Continental hotel in Lahore and it was a mixed experience this time as some of the staff seemed less than welcoming. We visited the famous MM Alam road and had dinner in a chic European restaurant ad to me this place was a shopping Mecca with cafes, that I someday want to explore with my better half. I was really impressed with the gym at P.C which was an amazing facility. Next day we did an impromptu visit to Inner city Lahore, going through Dehli gate. Instead of calling an uber or getting a tour, we took a random rickshah with the driver becoming a good friend and were dropped at Delhi gate.
We walked around the streets full of hustle bustleof Lahoris and I soaked in the energy of the city of my birth. We visited the Wazir Khan mosque , and were able to to go up the Minar of the mosque to take up some views of the inner city.
We left Lahore and made it back to Islamabad. All of us were very tired and wanted to take it waasy for a few days. The next day I visited Nidah’s home in Chaklala and saw Anum and the kids.
Separated by distance and time the visit was pleasant as Anum had arranged a high tea for me. Savoring the food and sneaking a peak at the drawing room where I met the love of my life about 18 years ago, I enjoyed the company of the kids. Ibi gave me some lessons on Dinosaur history and we hugged for a long time, and said farewell hoping to see each other again soon.
The next few days were restful as we made it to Shah Allah Ditta caves and took in some nice tea, and offered sacrifice of 2 goats in our lawn where I tried to relive the qurbani of Eid ul Adha. I relished the freshly made organ meat and gave the goat to prepare Bolan Sajji. The dinner was a family affair with Najams and Rabias family. The shahi Tukras at dinner were from another world.
In between we decided to go to Swat. Every trip has its downer, and this was it for us. The road trip was mostly fun on the motorway as we took in views of the Giant mountains as we approached them. It was the traffic to get to Swat after you get off motorway that was the killer. We found swat to be an un appetizing dusted town, no where the Switzerland it purports to be. The silver lining was lunch on swat river where we had majestic views of the valley and some delicious food. Driving like madmen, Bagla got us home in time.
The next few days were spent soaking it all in and meeting some old friends from Bahria and Rmc. I started going up Trail number every day to catch the dawn and also sitting mindlessly listening to Teri Surat on our rooftop. We also started shopping and made visits to the malls that are full of mouth watering shops. I was very impressed at furniture offerings and paining and now get why people ship furniture from Pakistan. The highlight of these days was La Terrazza a café in Centaurus mall with majestic views of Islamabad with the family, visit to Monal, where we were cold but had breathtaking views, live music and best Chicken Tikkas and the Matka Chai with Madeeha, Taha, Talha and Saad as we got ready to stay farewell to Islamabad the beautiful.
A sense of sadness takes over me every time I have to say farewell to Islamabad. As the time came closer, I felt low but was excited about going back to my nuclear family. The last day offered the best Biryani of the trip made by Mubashir as I was reminiscent of simple pleasures of waking up, being with family and visiting local cafes with my brothers. Taking off and leaving Pakistan, I prayed to Almighty to keep Pakistan safe and Imran at the helm to change destiny of my homeland.
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